Story
Chasing the cold coast
I'm from Canada. Inland, cold, landlocked, a long way from any ocean. I grew up skating and snowboarding, and I first saw the Pacific — and Northern California — when I was twelve. It changed how I saw everything.
I'd charge the waves and scramble through the storm-torn headlands. The rugged coast, the brisk cold water, the sunsets that ran on forever. It never gets old.
I moved to California in 2007, sold the snow gear, and doubled down on the water. I could never get away from the coast — it kept pulling me back. Pacifica, Santa Cruz, Fort Bragg. I explored the small towns and found new places to surf. In 2020 I quit visiting Pacifica and moved there.
Somewhere in all that I was lucky enough to find another drifting soul. I won't forget our first sunset at Mori Point. We'd been through a lot of the same things, and we said so. We've gone up and down the coastline together since, always racing to a promising peak or racing home to squeeze in one more surf before dark. Now, with our little grom and our dog Jett, the adventure continues.
Most people in the water out here weren't born into it either. They found it, kept coming back, and some of us stayed for good. That's who this is for.